As a self-proclaimed “woman of a certain age,” it makes sense that Wende Zomnir might explore estrogen replacement therapy — a well-established treatment for menopause symptoms.
But the Urban Decay founder isn’t just using it to alleviate hot flashes and night sweats. “I feel like this stuff really plumps up my skin from the inside out,” she says on TikTok, referring to a bottle of topical estrogen cream.
Zomnir is part of a wave of influencers touting the potential benefits of estrogen cream for skin care, claiming it can improve hydration and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
However, the trend isn’t as simple or safe as it sounds, says Asmi Berry, DO, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist who practices integrative approaches to skin care at BHSkin Dermatology in Los Angeles.
“Estrogen does play a role in skin health, especially when it comes to collagen, hydration, and elasticity.
But applying estrogen cream to your face, particularly one made for vaginal use, is not something I recommend,” Dr. Berry says, explaining that it may lead to skin irritation, redness, or pigmentation issues, like melasma.
And most importantly, she continues, if your estrogen levels aren’t low, you could be flooding your system with unnecessary hormones.
Here’s what to know about the potential benefits and risks of using estrogen cream on skin.
Estrogen helps the skin stay thick, hydrated, and elastic by supporting
collagen production and natural oils, Berry says.
When estrogen levels drop — like during
menopause — the skin can become thinner, drier, and more wrinkled, she explains.
“This isn’t just cosmetic; low estrogen also affects overall well-being, so addressing it systemically can improve both how you feel and how you look,” Berry says.
Vaginal estrogen creams, which are strong enough to enter the bloodstream, are often used as part of such systemic treatment. They help replace lost estrogen and mitigate symptoms such as
hot flashes,
night sweats, and
vaginal dryness.
These products contain estradiol, whereas creams designed for cosmetic use tend to contain estriol, explains Geeta Yadav, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Facet Dermatology in Toronto.
“These are both forms of estrogen but differ in function and potency.
Estriol — the dominant form of estrogen in the body during pregnancy — is weaker. Estradiol — the most potent form of estrogen the body can produce — is responsible for female secondary sex characteristics, fat distribution, and the maintenance of reproductive tissues,” Dr. Yadav says.
Cosmetic creams also sometimes contain phytoestrogens, which are plant-derived estrogen-like compounds, such as resveratrol, says
Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Danville, California, who specializes in cosmetics, including nonsurgical facial rejuvenation.
Others contain methyl estradiolpropanoate (MEP). While it’s not a hormone, explains Barry, MEP mimics the effects of estrogen on the skin, but it doesn’t enter the bloodstream and doesn’t affect your hormone levels.
Facial creams containing phytoestrogens, MEP, and very low doses of estriol are available over the counter, says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. But she notes prescription-only facial creams tend to be stronger and more effective because they contain higher doses of estriol.
“Over-the-counter products are often too weak to significantly impact wrinkles or collagen production,” Badreshia-Bansal says. “So, while OTC products are unlikely to be harmful, they are also unlikely to deliver the same anti-aging effects seen in small clinical studies using prescription-strength topical estrogen.”
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved estradiol for menopause symptoms, indicating it’s been clinically tested and proven safe for this purpose, says
Anna Chacon, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Miami with a private telehealth dermatology practice.
However, estradiol isn’t approved for cosmetic use, and little to no testing has been done to warrant its effectiveness or safety for this purpose, she says.
“Vaginal estrogen creams are designed to be used and tested on the thinner, more vascular skin cells — not on the epidermis of the face,” says Dr. Chacon. “Without more studies, dosage can be inconsistent, and long-term use can wreak havoc on the delicate balance of hormone levels.”
Be sure to speak with your healthcare provider before starting any new estrogen product to ensure it’s safe for you.
Applying estrogen or estrogen-like compounds to the face can activate estrogen receptors in the skin, prompting them to stimulate collagen production and increase moisture retention, explains Badreshia-Bansal.
Although some evidence suggests this may help combat signs of aging, it can be risky, and Badreshia-Bansal adds that more robust research is needed.
For example, in one small, placebo-controlled, double-masked study with postmenopausal women, a cosmetic estrogen cream appeared to improve participants’ skin moisture, tone, and elasticity.
However, this is an older study involving just 79 participants, and a pharmaceutical company funded it.
Topical estrogen products have shown some promise in improving skin elasticity, thickness, and hydration, particularly in postmenopausal women, Badreshia-Bansal says.
“However, while small studies have demonstrated improvements in fine lines and dermal density, the research is still limited in scale and long-term outcomes,” she adds. “We need larger, controlled studies to fully understand the benefits, safety, and ideal formulations before recommending topical estrogen as a mainstream anti-aging treatment.”
Estrogen is also just one piece of the aging puzzle, Berry says.
“Wrinkles and sagging are also driven by sun exposure, stress, diet, and other hormones like cortisol and thyroid,” explains Berry.
“The tested, safe, and evidence-based ways to combat wrinkles and signs of aging include retinoids, peptides, growth factors, antioxidants, and sunscreen.”
Research on estrogen in cosmetics is limited. Some small studies suggest estrogen and estrogen-like compounds may improve skin firmness and texture.
However, more robust research is needed to determine whether these ingredients are safe — and for whom.
If you have a prescription for estrogen cream for vaginal dryness, don’t assume you can use the same product for your face.
Vaginal estrogen creams are more likely to cause side effects than cosmetic products due to their thickness, potency, and mechanism of absorption, says Kay Durairaj, MD, a board-certified head and neck surgeon and facial plastic surgeon in Pasadena, California.
Additionally, a vaginal cream is not typically studied for local skin tolerances — a critical part of safety testing performed on many cosmetics sold in the United States. It’s important to remember that estrogen is a medication, and like all medications, it comes with potential risks and side effects.
Though research is lacking when it comes to long-term risks of using estrogen as an anti-aging cream, Dr. Durairaj says any topical formulation can potentially cause issues, such as:
- Hypersensitivity
- Irritation
- Clogged pores
- Redness
- Changes to skin color
“Overuse and high potencies can also cause systemic absorption, which may have hormonal effects such as breast tenderness,” adds Durairaj.
Systemic absorption — when topical estrogen enters the bloodstream — is more likely to occur with vaginal creams and stronger formulas, Durairaj notes.
If your estrogen levels haven’t dropped, using an estrogen cream may throw off your hormone balance and pose additional risks, Durairaj continues. “It may contribute to conditions like fibroids, endometriosis pain, and an increased risk of estrogen-sensitive cancers, such as breast and endometrial cancers,” she says.
Moreover, excess estrogen may interfere with certain medications, including fezolinetant, a nonhormonal drug prescribed for hot flashes; tranexamic acid, a drug sometimes prescribed for
heavy periods; some antibiotics; and blood thinners.
“Even over-the-counter ‘estrogen-like’ creams with phytoestrogens can irritate sensitive skin,” Berry says. “That’s why I don’t recommend trying this trend without medical guidance.”
Postmenopausal women experiencing estrogen-deficient skin changes — like thinning, dryness, or a noticeable increase in fine lines — may be candidates for medically supervised estrogen therapy, Badreshia-Bansal says.
On the other hand, people who are pregnant or breastfeeding, those with a personal or family history of estrogen-sensitive cancer, and those who take St. John’s wort should avoid the use of estrogen cream, notes Badreshia-Bansal.
“Estrogen can stimulate cell proliferation, and in high-risk individuals, this could pose a theoretical or real risk,” explains Badreshia-Bansal.
Anyone with a history of blood clots, liver disease, or hormone-related conditions should also check with their doctor before using these products, she continues.
Even if you don’t have a known health condition that may preclude you from trying topical estrogen creams, it’s best to speak with a doctor before doing so, Badreshia-Bansal says.
“A consultation with a board-certified gynecologist first is essential,” she adds, explaining that even over-the-counter formulations may enter your bloodstream and interact with other medications or health conditions.
“A professional can help determine whether the benefits outweigh the risks, and dermatologists may suggest safer, alternative anti-aging treatments with well-established safety profiles, such as retinoids, antioxidants, or peptides,” Badreshia-Bansal says.
Rachel Green
Rachel Davis
Derek Schulz
Sophia Martinez
Dr. Amara Okafor